How To Repair Satsuma My Summer Car

This is the troubleshooting page for Satsuma; it contains solutions to the most common issues well-nigh the subject. Use the article comments at the terminate of the folio for sharing any issues that are not currently present hither.

i Issues during the building procedure
- ane.i I cannot attach a specific part
- 1.2 I cannot find a specific part
- i.three Liquids are not staying in their respective reservoirs
- 1.4 My car started sparking/caught burn while tightening in the battery
2 Issues when trying to start the car for the outset time
- 2.1 The auto doesn't make whatever audio
- 2.2 The automobile makes a cranking sound, just doesn't plough over
- two.3 The automobile starts, but doesn't stay turned on
- ii.4 The car makes noise, only doesn't ignite
3 Problems after the car has been started
- 3.1 I hear a high-pitched chirping audio
- 3.2 I hear a squealing sound
- three.3 I hear a abiding clicking sound
- 3.4 I hear an infrequent clonking audio
- 3.v The exhaust smoke colour doesn't change when tuning the carburator
- 3.six The machine keeps making a gunshot sound
- 3.7 There is a red light on the dashboard
- three.eight The fuel gauge shows that the tank is empty fifty-fifty though it isn't
- 3.9 Gauge lights, headlights, etc. aren't working
- 3.ten Throttle response is inconsistent, car cannot idle properly
iv Issues during/after the test drive of the motorcar
- 4.1 White particles periodically get squirted from the engine bay
- 4.ii The car keeps veering left/right on its own
- iv.3 I hear an occasional gunshot sound after driving for a while
- 4.4 The gears continue changing on their ain
- iv.v The wheels are spinning, merely the car refuses to motility
- iv.six The car is very sluggish to drive
- 4.7 The car turns off and refuses to turn over again
- iv.eight The machine turns very slowly at high speeds
5 Bug coming up afterward driving the machine for a long time
- 5.i The auto is shaking violently
- five.2 There is smoke coming from the engine bay
- v.three A red light on the dashboard turns on at low RPM
- v.iv The car is making a constant squealing sound
- 5.five The auto is underpowered and the RPM goes up and down
- 5.half-dozen The gears are changing on their ain
- 5.7 The car cranks for a 2d and turns off when turning the ignition
- 5.8 I heard two loud bangs from the engine bay, and the auto refuses to start again
- 5.ix The car keeps overheating
- 5.x One or more of the wheels have sunken into the basis
- five.11 The car has suddenly started veering left/right on its own
- 5.12 The car brakes very poorly
- 5.13 The motorcar struggles to keep RPM up, and/or refusing to get-go again
- 5.xiv The machine will not start/starts and stops later on a few seconds

Issues during the building process

The following issues might arise during the building process of the car, before any attempt to start it has been made:

I cannot attach a specific role

A) The office attachment might accept bugged out; saving and reloading should fix this.

B) The part might require further assembly before it tin be attached, such as the halfshafts requiring the disc brakes.

I cannot find a specific part

A) An update might accept changed the initial position of the part, such as the stock wheels being moved to the mansion; run across Auto parts#Other parts for a list of parts like these.

B) The part might have fallen through the terrain and respawned at the landfill site; check there if the part is non on the listing from solution A.

Liquids are not staying in their respective reservoirs

A) There is a loose/untightened bolt somewhere in the machine; use this folio to check which 1 might have been overlooked.

My car started sparking/caught fire while tightening in the battery

A) The negative (black) side of the bombardment was tightened earlier the positive (carmine) side. Never exit the negative side bolted in on its ain, as this volition cause an electrical fire.

Issues when trying to start the car for the showtime time

The following issues might arise when attempting to start the car subsequently it has been fully assembled. This section assumes that all of the damageable auto parts have been replaced/serviced by Fleetari prior to the engine assembly:

The car doesn't make any sound

A) The machine has non been wired properly, go through the checklist on this page and double-cheque that no wires take been missed.

B) The starter has not been fully bolted in; in that location are 2x7mm bolts that adhere the starter to the engine (ane of them also acts as the footing zipper for the electric circuit), and 1x5mm commodities for the starter motor wire.

C) The bombardment is dead or not attached properly; information technology is attached with 2x8mm bolts (never leave the negative black side tightened on its own!), bank check the bombardment life with the bombardment charger first: if the needle is all the mode to the right, the battery is dead. The stock bombardment is most likely already dead if this is the first time it is being attached to the charger.

The car makes a cranking sound, but doesn't turn over

A) Make certain the fuel tank has fuel in it; it might have leaked out due to untightened bolts, or it might have never been filled in the first place.

B) The spark plugs might not exist tightened, or installed in the first place.

C) Check if the rocker shaft is broken or not.

The car starts, merely doesn't stay turned on

A) The spark plugs are non tightened, thighten them up with the Sparkplug wrench.

B) The car has a lack of tuning; pull out the choke, keep the throttle pressed (don't redline!), and look for the engine temperature to attain lxxx °C (halfway mark on the gauge).

The car makes noise, just doesn't ignite

A) This is likely due to the machine not containing whatsoever fuel. Check the fuel level and attempt again.

Issues afterwards the car has been started

The automobile will likely take most of these issues regardless of how well the assembly went, as they are tuning related and can/should merely be fixed when the car is running steadily:

I hear a loftier-pitched chirping sound

A) The benefactor is not tuned properly, see this page for a tuning guide.

I hear a squealing sound

A) The alternator is not tuned properly, run across this page for a tuning guide.

I hear a constant clicking sound

A) The rocker valves were adapted at some signal prior to starting the car, and should be reset. This can exist done past scrolling downward twenty or more times on each valve with the screwdriver, and then scrolling back upwardly 8 times.

I hear an infrequent clonking sound

A) The camshaft was incorrectly tuned during assembly. Turn the automobile off immediately if this sound is heard, as information technology is the most damaging part to tune incorrectly. See this page for a tuning guide.

The frazzle fume colour doesn't change when tuning the carburator

A) The choke is still pulled out, and has to exist pushed in.

The car keeps making a gunshot sound

A) The air/fuel ratio is likewise lean. This could be caused by tuning the carburator improperly, or the engine overheating.

B) The camshaft gear is not aligned properly

There is a cherry-red lite on the dashboard

A) The reddish calorie-free means that the alternator is not working equally well every bit it should. This is likely caused by the air/fuel ratio being too lean, which in turn is non rotating the crankshaft pulley fast enough for the alternator while the car is idling.

The fuel gauge shows that the tank is empty fifty-fifty though information technology isn't

A) The fuel tank has not been wired upward.

Gauge lights, headlights, etc. aren't working

A) The accessories have not been wired up properly, double-check the wiring using this page and make sure everything is attached.

B) The battery has died due to the alternator not giving enough accuse. This is likely caused by the alternator chugalug snapping, or non existence installed in the first place.

Throttle response is inconsistent, car cannot idle properly

A) The spark plugs are either completely burned out, or not tightened enough.

Bug during/after the exam drive of the car

The following issues are common during and after the first test drive of the motorcar. This section does non have in account possible crashes with the terrain/other vehicles:

White particles periodically get squirted from the engine bay

A) This is caused by the radiator trying to keep upward with the engine temperature rising, which is most likely a upshot of the throttle existence fully open up for long periods of time. This is difficult to avoid when driving with a non-analogue input device such as a keyboard.

The car keeps veering left/correct on its own

A) The wheels are not aligned properly, or the suspension is desperately aptitude. While it is unlikely that the break is bent, information technology is not impossible due to physics bugs nowadays in the game (such as pushing the car around too aggressively, or getting the automobile stuck inside the garage pit). Try tuning the steering rods again before worrying about straightening the suspension at the repair shop; a guide for the alignment tin be found on this folio.

I hear an occasional gunshot sound after driving for a while

A) This is caused by the air/fuel ratio getting besides lean from the engine overheating. Keep the RPMs low and the temperature estimate at around the halfway mark.

B) The alternator belt might have snapped, causing the h2o pump to end working and the engine overheating. Terminate the car and check the chugalug status.

The gears keep changing on their own

A) Some of the bolts on parts that directly affect the gearbox behavior might be loose/unbolted. Double-bank check them past using the list on this page.

The wheels are spinning, but the car refuses to motion

A) The handbrake is probable nonetheless engaged. Hold down the right mouse button while looking at the brake lever to fully undo information technology.

The car is very sluggish to drive

A) The rocker shaft and/or carburator and/or distributor are not tuned properly. They practise not make whatever noise when the car is running (autonomously from the rocker shaft if information technology was tuned prior to starting the car); they are also the about hard car parts to tune correctly. See this guide for how to tune the rocker shaft, this guide for how to melody the carburator and this guide for how to tune the benefactor.

B) The spark plugs are not tightened, tighten them up with the Sparkplug wrench.

C) The spark plugs might be cleaved, replace them at Teimo's shop.

The car turns off and refuses to plow once more

A) The battery has died due to the alternator not giving plenty accuse. This is likely caused by the alternator belt snapping, or not existence installed in the commencement place.

B) Brand sure that the rocker shaft is non broken.

The car turns very slowly at loftier speeds

A) It's completely normal !!! Information technology turns very slowly at high speed so every bit not to lose control of the machine. Y'all can change this in the settings under the name "High speed aid"

Issues coming upward after driving the car for a long time

This section covers problems that might come up upwardly later the car has been driven for tens/hundreds of kilometers. These issues are not straight caused by the user, but rather come up upwardly of a sudden while driving the automobile normally:

The auto is shaking violently

A) The crankshaft is almost broken, buy a new one or service the current one at the repair store.

There is smoke coming from the engine bay

A) The head gasket is most broken, buy a new i or service the current one at the repair store.

A red lite on the dashboard turns on at low RPM

A) The alternator or h2o pump is about broken, buy new ones or service the current ones at the repair shop.

The car is making a abiding squealing sound

A) The alternator chugalug is loose, information technology can exist tightened by loosing the the alternator with the screwdriver class the spanner & or ratchet set and using the coil wheel to tighten it until until the squealing stops.

B) The Water pump has cleaved down. The pulley has jammed causing the sqealing sound. Have it serviced or buy a replacement at the Fleetari Repair Shop

The car is underpowered and the RPM goes upward and down

A) One or more of the pistons is almost broken, buy new ones or service the current ones at the repair shop. This is apparent if a blueish fume is emitted from the exhaust, equally the cracked piston heads are letting oil into the fuel mixture.

B) The spark plugs are well-nigh broken, buy a new box of them from Teimo's shop and supercede the erstwhile ones.

C) The fuel pump is almost broken, replace information technology at the repair shop.

The gears are irresolute on their own

A) The gearbox is nigh broken, buy a new 1 or service the electric current i at the repair shop.

B) The clutch fluid is well-nigh completely depleted, buy more and fill the reservoir.

The car cranks for a 2d and turns off when turning the ignition

A) The starter is broken, purchase a new 1 or service the current one at the repair shop.

I heard two loud bangs from the engine bay, and the motorcar refuses to start once more

A) The rocker shaft is broken, purchase a new one or service the current one at the repair shop.

The car keeps overheating

A) The radiator might exist empty, check the make full level and fill it upward if necessary. The fill level of the radiator can be easily checked past opening the radiator fill cap and looking at it.

B) The oil level is might be low, cheque the fill level and make full it up if necessary. The oil pan is well-nigh empty if a carmine light under the speedometer comes on when the auto is running.

C) A role important to keeping the machine from overheating is about to interruption; e.1000 Caput gasket. Go and replace the role/repair it at Fleetari Repair Shop

Ane or more than of the wheels have sunken into the ground

A) The tyre(s) have been punctured or take just worn down on their own, replace them with new ones from the repair store.

The car has suddenly started veering left/right on its own

A) The car'south pause has been damaged, repair it by choosing the "suspension straightening" option at the repair shop.

The motorcar brakes very poorly

A) The brake fluid is nigh completely depleted, buy more and fill up the reservoir.

The car struggles to keep RPM up, and/or refusing to first again

A) The motorcar has run out of fuel, use a full Jerrycan to fill information technology support or tow it to Teimos using the Gifu or Kekmet.

B) The fuel pump has died/is close to breaking completely, remove the pump and go to Fleetari Repair Shop to purchase a new i.

The car volition not start/starts and stops after a few seconds

A) The sparkplugs accept worn out and need to be replaced. They can be purchased at Teimo's shop.

Source: https://my-summer-car.fandom.com/wiki/Satsuma/Troubleshooting

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